Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a city that stays with you. The charm of Mostar Old Town, the breathtaking beauty of Mostar Bridge (Stari Most), and the surrounding landscapes make it one of the most picturesque places in the Balkans.
I visited in September 2023 with the goal of experiencing it all—the famous Sarajevo to Mostar train ride, renting a car for a scenic road trip to Neum, and returning to Sarajevo by bus to compare both journeys. Along the way, I watched divers jump from Mostar Bridge while sipping coffee, got scammed on a bus ticket, and drove through stunning mountain and coastal landscapes.
If you’re planning a trip to Mostar, Bosnia, this guide covers everything you need to know, from where to stay to the best road trips, day trips, and must-visit attractions.
The city, nestled along the emerald-green Neretva River, is a blend of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Yugoslav influences. The roads leading into Mostar are well-maintained, and parking is available near the Old Town—though during peak season, it can get tricky. I recommend staying near Stari Most, where you can wake up to a view of the bridge.
👉 Where I Stayed in Mostar: I found a fantastic apartment with window overlooking the Neretva River and the famous bridge, which I will explain in details during this post. You can find the best hotels in Mostar here.
This Post Contains
- Getting to Mostar: Train vs. Bus from Sarajevo
- Day Trip from Dubrovnik to Mostar
- How to Visit Mostar from Split
- Crossing the Border Between Bosnia and Croatia: What You Need to Know
- Exploring Mostar Old Town & Watching the Famous Bridge Jumpers
- Mostar Bridge Jumping Tradition
- Other Must-Visit Spots in Mostar Old Town:
- The Ultimate One-Day Road Trip from Mostar
- Where to Eat in Mostar
- Final Thoughts: Why Mostar Should Be on Your Bucket List
Getting to Mostar: Train vs. Bus from Sarajevo
I started my journey by taking the Sarajevo to Mostar train, a ride that’s often described as one of the most beautiful train journeys in Europe. The views were stunning, with the train cutting through mountains, rivers, and deep gorges, but there was one problem. You can only see from the windows to the sides and the reflection on the window made the overall experience just average. The train is air-conditioned so you cannot open the windows.
Upon arrival at Mostar train station, I rented a car immediately—the best decision I made just across the station. Herzegovina is best explored by road, and having a car gave me the freedom to visit hidden gems like Blagaj, Počitelj, and Neom. I rented the car from the car rental recommended by my host in Mostar and the car was not only good but the price was nice too. The location of car rental is: See the google map location of car rental in Mostar
For my return trip, I took the Mostar to Sarajevo bus, and surprisingly, I enjoyed the bus ride more. The road followed the Neretva River, offering even better views than the train. The reason for the better views is very simple. I can see from the front windshield of the bus and form the side windows too. This over 180 degree view that was pleasing to the eyes.
Scammed on the Bus: However, the bus ride came with an unexpected issue—I got scammed. Despite buying two tickets, at the bus station counter, when the ticket checker came, it turned out the ticket was for only one person. The worst part? Bus tickets bought on board were more expensive than those at the counter.
With no English-speaking staff, I was struggling to explain my case—until a kind Bosnian girl sitting behind me helped translate. But even after explaining, I still had to pay again. Lesson learned: always double-check your bus ticket!
Location for boarding the bus in Mostar: Check Google map location for the bus station
Below is the timing for Mostar-Sarajevo and Sarajevo-Mostar Buses:
Day Trip from Dubrovnik to Mostar
If you’re staying in Dubrovnik, you can easily visit Mostar on a day trip. The drive takes about 2.5 hours, crossing the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina. Many tour operators include stops at Počitelj and Kravice Waterfalls, but I recommend renting a car for more flexibility.
Border Crossing Tips:
- Carry your passport, as you’ll be entering a non-EU country.
- Some rental companies require a Green Card for Bosnia, so check in advance.
- Avoid peak hours to minimize waiting time at the border.
How to Visit Mostar from Split
Many travelers also visit Mostar from Split as part of their Balkans itinerary. The drive takes about 2.5 hours, and there are buses and private tours available. A road trip through the scenic landscapes of Bosnia and Herzegovina makes for an unforgettable experience.
Crossing the Border Between Bosnia and Croatia: What You Need to Know
Although I didn’t personally cross the Bosnia-Croatia border on this trip, I’ve crossed the Albania-Montenegro border twice during a previous Balkans road trip, and the experience was smooth and hassle-free. I would expect the Bosnia-Croatia border crossing to be similar in terms of procedures, but there’s one key difference—Croatia is part of the EU and Schengen region.
If you’re planning to travel from Mostar to Dubrovnik or any other Croatian city, be prepared for border control checks. Since Bosnia and Herzegovina is not part of the Schengen Zone, you’ll need a valid Schengen visa, EU citizenship, or a residence permit to enter Croatia. Unlike other Balkan borders where travel is usually straightforward, this particular crossing requires proper documentation. Always check visa requirements in advance to avoid any issues at the border.
If you’re traveling from Mostar to Split, the journey is quite scenic, taking you through mountain roads and coastal landscapes. However, just like the Mostar to Dubrovnik route, you’ll need to cross the Bosnia-Croatia border, which means passport checks and visa requirements apply. The drive usually takes around 2.5 to 3 hours, but delays at the border can add extra time, especially during peak summer months.
From Split and Dubrovnik to Mostar, the immigration is a bit simpler.
Exploring Mostar Old Town & Watching the Famous Bridge Jumpers
Walking into Mostar Old Town felt like stepping into a fairy tale. The cobbled streets, historic Ottoman architecture, and the Neretva River cutting through the city make it a place you can wander for hours.
The highlight, of course, is the Mostar Bridge in Bosnia, also known as Stari Most. The Mostar Bridge (Stari Most) is the heart of Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and its most famous landmark. Originally built in 1566 during the Ottoman era, this stunning UNESCO-listed bridge was destroyed during the Bosnian War in 1993 and later reconstructed in 2004 using the same traditional techniques. The bridge arches beautifully over the emerald-green Neretva River, creating a postcard-perfect view. One of the most thrilling traditions in Mostar is the bridge diving, where local divers collect tips from tourists before leaping into the river from a height of 24 meters. The best time to visit is early in the morning to enjoy a peaceful view or at sunset when the bridge glows under the golden light.
Mostar Bridge Jumping Tradition
One of the most thrilling experiences in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina is watching locals dive off Stari Most into the icy Neretva River. As I sat at a restaurant overlooking the bridge, enjoying a morning coffee and juice, a diver suddenly took the plunge.
It’s a centuries-old tradition, and divers often collect tips from tourists before making the jump. Watching it in real-time was unforgettable.
Other Must-Visit Spots in Mostar Old Town:
Below are some other iconic places to visit when in Mostar, which can be visited very easily by walk when you are staying in the old town:
Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque: A Viewpoint Over Mostar
The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, built in 1618, is one of the best-preserved Ottoman mosques in Mostar Old Town. The mosque features stunning stained-glass windows, traditional carpets, and detailed calligraphy on its walls. Many tourists pay to climb the minaret for a panoramic view of Stari Most and the surrounding area, but since mosques are places of worship, I prefer to recommend alternative free viewpoints instead. You can enjoy similar breathtaking views of Mostar Bridge and the Neretva River from nearby cafés and Lučki Most, which offers a fantastic wide-angle view of the Old Town.
As a Muslim, I condemn the entry ticket to the mosque. As per islamic tradition, mosque is for all and anyone can visit it anytime without need to pay the entrance fees. I was stopped to enter in the mosque even as a Muslim, which I have never experienced anywhere in the world.
Old Town: A Lovely Walk Through History
Walking through Mostar Old Town feels like stepping into a time capsule of Ottoman history, with stone-paved streets, historic bazaars, and traditional buildings lining the way. The Čaršija (Old Bazaar) is the heart of the Old Town, where you can find handmade Bosnian crafts, silver jewelry, Ottoman-style carpets, and copper coffee sets. Small alleyways lead to hidden courtyards, historic inns, and lively cafés where you can relax with a cup of traditional Bosnian coffee. The best time to explore the Old Town is in the evening when the soft glow of lanterns and the sound of street musicians create a magical atmosphere.
Crooked Bridge (Kriva Ćuprija): A Mini Version of Stari Most
Tucked away in a quiet corner of the Old Town, the Crooked Bridge (Kriva Ćuprija) is often referred to as a mini version of Mostar Bridge. Built in 1558, this charming stone bridge crosses the Radobolja River, a small tributary of the Neretva River. It is believed to have been a test model for Stari Most before its construction. Unlike Stari Most, this bridge is much less crowded, offering a peaceful escape from the busy streets of Mostar. The surrounding area is picturesque, with stone houses, overhanging trees, and a charming riverside café that makes for a perfect photo stop.
Lučki Most: The Best Free View of Stari Most
For the best free panoramic view of Stari Most, head to Lučki Most, a lesser-known bridge just a short walk from Mostar Old Town. Unlike standing on Stari Most, where your view is limited, this bridge offers a stunning wide-angle perspective of Mostar’s skyline, the Neretva River, and the famous Old Bridge. Since it’s not on the usual tourist route, Lučki Most is much quieter, making it a perfect place to enjoy Mostar’s beauty in peace. It’s also a great location for sunset photography, as the golden light reflects beautifully off the river and surrounding stone buildings.
The Ultimate One-Day Road Trip from Mostar
Renting a car in Mostar gave me the ultimate freedom to explore. I set off on a one-day road trip through some of Bosnia’s most stunning landscapes.
Blagaj (12 km, 15 min drive)
This was one of my favorite stops. The highlight here is the Blagaj Tekke, a 600-year-old Dervish monastery built next to a powerful river spring. The setting is absolutely breathtaking, with crystal-clear waters and towering cliffs.
The Blagaj Tekke, also known as the Blagaj Dervish Monastery, is one of the most serene and mystical sites in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Built in the early 16th century during the Ottoman rule, the tekke served as a spiritual retreat for Sufi dervishes, who practiced Islamic mysticism in this peaceful setting. The monastery’s location is breathtaking, nestled against a towering 200-meter cliff and sitting at the source of the Buna River, one of the strongest karst springs in Europe. The architecture is a blend of Ottoman and Mediterranean styles, with wooden balconies, whitewashed walls, and a tranquil courtyard overlooking the emerald-blue waters. Today, visitors can explore the prayer rooms, living quarters, and historical artifacts, gaining insight into the Sufi way of life that once thrived here.
Boating Inside the Cave of the Buna Spring
One of the most unique experiences at Blagaj is taking a boat ride into the cave at the source of the Buna River, just beside the tekke. The spring emerges from deep within the cave, creating a mystical and almost otherworldly scene. The boat ride offers a closer look at the deep turquoise waters and the impressive rock formations surrounding the cave entrance. The cold and crystal-clear water adds to the refreshing and peaceful atmosphere of the site, making it a must-do activity when visiting Blagaj.
This is very economical activity to do and we really liked it. Boat ride is just for few minutes.
Provalije Waterfall (40 km, 45 min drive)
A quick stop, but nothing spectacular. If you’re short on time, you can skip this one.
Neum (100 km, 2-hour drive)
This was a hidden gem! Neum is Bosnia’s only coastal town, with stunning beaches, turquoise waters, and scenic mountain roads. The drive itself was incredible, with sea views on one side and mountains on the other. It is not very common to see in the travel blogs that someone went till Neum from Mostar on the trip to Bosnia, but I don’t regret this decision of going to this coastal town on this trip.
Besides just a change in the landscape, there is a difference in political and religion aspects too.
Mostar and Neum are not just geographically distinct but also reflect the political and administrative complexities of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The country consists of two political entities: the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (mostly Bosniaks and Croats) and Republika Srpska (mostly Serbs), along with the Brčko District, which is a self-governing area.
Mostar, located in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is known for its divided history between Bosniaks and Croats, with ethnic and political divisions still visible today. The city operates under a unique power-sharing system, but political tensions remain, especially in local governance.
Neum, also part of the Federation, is predominantly Croatian, and its status as Bosnia’s only seaside town makes it strategically significant. Unlike Mostar, which experienced heavy conflict during the 1990s war, Neum remained largely untouched by fighting, allowing it to develop as a coastal getaway.
Despite these differences, both cities showcase the diverse cultural and historical layers that define Bosnia and Herzegovina, offering visitors a mix of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Mediterranean influences.
Mostar is known for its mix of Islam and Christianity, with a majority of Bosniaks (Muslims) in the east and Croats (Catholic Christians) in the west. The city is home to beautiful mosques like the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, as well as churches such as the Franciscan Church of St. Peter and Paul, symbolizing its religious coexistence.
Neum, on the other hand, is predominantly Catholic, as it is part of the Croat-majority area of the country.
Počitelj (30 km from Mostar, 30 min drive, perfect for sunset)
Počitelj is a stunning medieval Ottoman village nestled along the Neretva River, about 30 km from Mostar. Known for its stone-built houses, narrow cobbled streets, and a hilltop fortress, Počitelj offers a picturesque blend of history and nature. The Gavrakapetan Tower provides breathtaking panoramic views, while the Šišman Ibrahim Pasha Mosque showcases classic Ottoman architecture. A perfect stop on a day trip from Mostar, Počitelj is especially magical at sunset, when the golden light illuminates its ancient walls.
And yes I saw the sunset at this magical place. Definitely recommended.
Kravice Waterfalls (40 km, 1-hour drive, but missed it!)
I planned to visit Kravice Waterfalls, one of Bosnia’s most famous natural attractions, but missed it because the sun had set. If you’re planning a similar road trip, start early so you don’t make the same mistake!
Where to Eat in Mostar
Bosnian food is a mix of Ottoman, Mediterranean, and Balkan flavors. Some must-try dishes include Ćevapi (grilled meat sausages), Burek (savory pastry), and Begova Čorba (Bosnian stew).
Final Thoughts: Why Mostar Should Be on Your Bucket List
Mostar is a place that truly captures your heart. From standing on Stari Most, watching locals jump into the Neretva River, to driving through Bosnia’s incredible landscapes, every moment felt surreal.
If you’re visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mostar is a must-see destination. And if you have time, rent a car and take a road trip—it’s the best way to experience the hidden gems of this stunning country.